This year, the festivities are back in full force. After two years of programming heavily hampered by the pandemic and a celebration experienced "from a distance," the 2022 Romaria promises a grand return.
We Are All Pilgrimage
The month of August is synonymous with countless attractions: vacations and the beach (for many), the return of migrants, popular festivals, and more. Since 1783, the Pilgrimage in honor of Our Lady of Agony has taken place in Viana do Castelo. In a festival that has become, over time, one of the largest and most beautiful in our country, tradition and a deep connection to the sea and its people reign supreme.
"Pilgrimage to Our Lady of Agony - Viana do Castelo". Painting by Alfredo Januário de Moraes (1872-1971)
The history of the Pilgrimage
Data varies, but the longevity of this worship is certain: the city's devotion to the patron saint of fishermen dates back to sometime between the 17th and 18th centuries. Since then, fishermen have thanked her for her protection in their fishing activities and in the adversities that arise from them, such as storms and shipwrecks. It all began in the Chapel of Bom Jesus do Santo Sepulcro do Calvário , built in 1674 and later dedicated to Marian worship, which in 1706 became the Chapel of Our Lady of Solitude. Only in 1744 did it receive its definitive title of Our Lady of Agony, later expanded and blessed. Since 1783, it has been the site of the annual Solemn Mass on August 20th, a date that would become a municipal holiday and mark the main day of the Pilgrimage.
Three days of tradition
Today, the Saint is the queen of pilgrimages and the varied traditions of what is unanimously recognized as the largest popular Portuguese festival, repeated annually on August 18, 19, and 20. These three days are marked by several processions, rich in music and traditional Minho costumes, the usual procession to the sea, Portuguese food and drink in the countless taverns and restaurants that serve the thousands of visitors, and, as the final exclamation point, the fireworks (called " Fogo do Meio" or "Fogo da Santa ") whose brilliant cascade of colors and patterns announces the end of the festivities.
The Stewardship
“So it is like this;
Wear gold around your neck
Little earrings galore
She's pretty, I like her
He has flirtatious eyes.”
Francisco Sampaio
The first procession is the Desfile da Mordomia (Mordomia Parade ), which takes place on the 18th. Here, traditional Viana costumes shine, from the farm workers to the varinas, to the most refined costumes of the mordomas, worn by hundreds of Minho women.
Gold is also on display (the Custodies, the Maltese Cross, the Viana Collections, the Bead Necklace, the Queen's Earrings, the Heart of Viana, etc.), in what is the largest open-air gold showcase in the country and which also marks the passing of the baton of many generational ornaments, with centuries-old family pieces being carried on the chest, in some cases, by a new member of the family, thus not letting tradition die.
The procession is also famous for its drums and the parade of "Gigantones", an emblematic figure brought over a hundred years ago from Santiago de Compostela.
The Solemn Procession
The Solemn Procession in honor of Our Lady of Agony follows on the 19th. This is the most religious moment of the pilgrimage, where silence and respect for the patron saint reign, and where Viana watches the images of Our Lady of the Seas, Our Lady of the Assumption, Our Lady of Monserrate, and Our Lord of the Afflicted pass by, coming from the church of S. Domingos to meet the float of Our Lady of Agony, which is the first to arrive and wait at the shrine. Tradition dictates that balconies be covered with traditional quilts and flowers be thrown from windows as the procession passes. It is faith and devotion that reigns in the streets of Viana and serves as the driving force for the men who carry the floats, among the more than a hundred figures representing well-known biblical scenes. On this same day, the making of the Colorful Carpets begins in the streets of Ribeira, an activity that you can learn more about here . Festas d'Agonia — Solemn Procession (festasdagonia.com)
The Procession to the Sea
Finally, on the 20th, the Procession to the Sea takes place. This is the feast day of Our Lady of Agony, and prayers are the highlight of the day, a ceremony where thanks are given for her protection and promises are fulfilled. Hundreds of duly decorated boats await the floats, carried by men dressed in their finest plaid shirts. These are blessed upon the patron saint's arrival, and then carried to the sea along with the images of Our Lady of Agony, Our Lady of Monserrate, Our Lady of the Seas, and Saint Peter. Returning to the pier, the procession is greeted by the beautiful Salt Carpets (made overnight) and made its way through them to the churchyard, where the procession concludes with a heartfelt public bow to Our Lady.
The long-awaited return of the Pilgrimage
This year, the festivities are back in full force. After two years with a program heavily conditioned by the pandemic and a celebration experienced "from a distance," the 2022 Pilgrimage promises a grand return. "The time is approaching when the fireworks will once again echo throughout the region, announcing, to the sound of our drums, the unparalleled euphoria of the giants and big-headed people, that the Pilgrimage of Our Lady of Agony is back. Now, it's finally time for us to return to Viana, to experience the festival, the patron saint, the tradition, as we did year after year. Portugal's largest Pilgrimage is back. (...) It will be five days and a program with around 45 moments of live celebration. But many more, counting on what each of us will bring to the streets of Viana do Castelo these days, because now WE ARE ALL PILGRIMAGE," can be read on the Festas da Agonia website.
Pilgrimage Program 2022
And so it will be, according to the 2022 festival program published by its committee. There will be five days of highlights, but many more activities, with the Pilgrimage officially beginning on August 6th. In a program packed with returning traditional moments, in addition to those already mentioned, we can also expect the Historical/Ethnographic Procession , the "Vamos para a Romaria" Parade, musical concerts, folklore festivals, the Costume Festival, the Crafts Fair, a philharmonic band meeting, among many others. The full program for this year's Festa da Agonia can be found here .
The Costume Party
One of the highlights of this and any edition of the Festivities is always the Costume Festival . It takes place at the Viana do Castelo Cultural Center, this year on the 20th. As can be read on the Viana City Council website, it is a "lesson in history and culture, but in the form of a celebration, amidst much dance and music. It combines the beauty and richness of every detail of Viana do Castelo's traditional costume with the rigor of a careful explanation by the most knowledgeable men and women on the subject. A unique setting, a tribute to the ethnography and folklore of Alto Minho, in which the curious and tradition-loving are challenged to understand the origin and history of the uses and customs associated with the costume, and the art of dressing well and 'goldening' by the genuine Viana woman. The linen costume, with various characteristic colors and shapes, is a symbol of the region that Viana women wore until the late 19th century depending on the occasion, moment in life, and their status. The use of gold manifested the family's wealth, but above all, the woman's pride."
Costume Museum - Presentation - Viana do Castelo City Council (cm-viana-castelo.pt)
The Costumes
The costumes, as a prominent symbol of the region, are always a point of greatest interest and appreciation for the many who flock to the city of Viana during this time of year. The Viana costume , strikingly striking for its exuberance and beauty, is considered a reflection of the Minho identity and soul. At the Costume Museum, we can discover its varieties, with several unique pieces, and also learn more about its history. Located in the city's historic center, the museum was created in 1997 with the "mission of studying and disseminating the identity and ethnographic heritage of Viana through its greatest exponent, the Vianês costume."
The poster of the Pilgrimage of Agony
The poster has already been selected and is now displayed throughout the city. Every year since 2010, the poster has been chosen through a public competition, and dozens of participants try to become part of the city's festival history and the countless public displays where the poster is displayed.
All the conditions are now in place for the return of the Pilgrimage. With the program defined and the people eager to bring back the tradition, Viana is preparing to live up to the numerous awards it has received—notably the Declaration of Interest for Tourism award in 2013 and the Five Star Regions award in 2020—and also to build on its well-established reputation as the country's largest popular festival .
